Fashion and Design: History of 1940s to 1950s

Fashion and Design: History of 1940s to 1950s Introduction Fashion is a heating issue in daily life, which is close to nearly every aspect of society. As the expansion of globalisation, fashion companies are seeking to more opportunities in international market by establishing subsidiaries all over the world. According to Helen (1965), fashion design is using dedicated art in clothing and accessories to establish a unique style. In todays fashion field, Italy is considered in the leading place for its elegant and dedicated style. However, France and Japan are also produce excellent designers who have gained international reputation in fashion design and establish famous brands. The history of fashion design could be dated back to 19th century with Charles Frederick Worth to sew label into the garments, and only clothing created after 1858 could be considered as fashion design1. During that historical period, most fashion designers are self-employed in a family-based clothing shop and provide design service to individual customer, which are quite different from todays specialty stores or high-fashion department stores. During the whole 20th century, fashion design had gradually been developed systematically and has become an important industry in society. It is therefore useful for analyzing the fashion history of 20th as a guide for the new centurys development. This essay will pick up specific decade between 1940 and 1950 as the research target. Background information of 20th century fashion design The development of fashion design in 20th century has experienced a unique process. The first decade of the century was a period to pursue new element into the design (Baudot, 1999). The emergence of new female generation and solid trend in arts had stimulated fashion design to combine new elements. The Europe trend was still focused on elegance and grace, while U.S trend was developed to natural style, provided a step from the dedicated style of 19th century. Between1910-1919, there was a great change in fashion design influence by Deco arts. The distinct character of Deco arts was the use of straight and folded line. It brought a boyish style in the fashion design to adopt a concision style and add some eastern elements. During next decade, the fashion design added girlish style to the clothes and continue to keep the youth elements in the design. Chanels style created by combination of coat, skirt and dress privailed and expanded until nowadays. Another characteristics is the atte ntion on sport clothes design. There is also fashion design trend in China with the amend of traditional cheong-sam. 1930-1939 was an important decade for the fashion design. In reaction to the economic crisis, the patch-up skirts which represented saving appeared. Then a long skirt lap prevailed until the Second World War. The broken of war stimulated a trend of nostalgic new Victorian style. Another important contribution of this decade is the establishment of modern fashion design criteria, combining the elements of elegance, beauty and taste to emphasize the corresponding of clothes and circumstances. The next decade, also the target period in the research, is 1940-1949. The luxurious style during the war time was restricted by law and moral codes. Practicality had become a criteria for fashion design. The pursue of function made the women clothes be input more male elements by the prevail of army clothes and frocks. The war time also provided America with the chance of developi ng its own fashion design instead of totally relying on Europe. Aims of the research Nowadays, fashion designers create their original work to express their unique taste and style. However, they also produce works to follow the existing fashion trends. They are hired by mass market manufacturers to create clothes for men, women and children. The most successful designer brands today are those brands with long history, such as Chanel, Christian Dior and Louis Vuitton. It took them years to establish and develop their positions as fashion icons. In regard to the historical context, 1900-1950 is a very important revolution in fashion history, manufactures started more creative on the design of their clothes. Fashion design corporations have to produce their own brand with high quality and reputation to survive and compete in the promising market. To define and understand what constitutes fashion design and how fashion design has emerged in todays time as place the fashion design in certain imperative time periods is important way to understand fashion industry. The aim of this research is to present fashion design in the decades of 1940-1950 to explore the relationship between fashion design and a series of factors, such as arts, health beauty, science technology, and so on. Fashion Design and Its Related Factors Arts Before 20th century, fashion design is only a passive reflection of arts. When came to 20th century, especially the decade between 1940 and 1950, fashion designers were willing to cooperative with arts. They combined their design with major arts genre. Schiaparells desk clothes and laniate clothes are representation of super-realism (Buxhaum, 1999). During this period, the popular music trend was bop and big band. In the dance area, jive, swing and foxtrot was in the heating position. All the trends in arts have influenced fashion design deeply. All this new ideas brought fashion market into a new generation. At this time, enterprise were normally operation by designers them or family business. Politics and current events The most influential event during this period is the Second World War. War as an important factor to change the history of human being, as well as the development of fashion design. During the decade after the Second World War, fashion design had a great transformation. Womens fashion of the beginning of the decade was masculine, and by the end of the decade2 it changed to extremely feminine. During the war time, the fashion design style was changed from elegance, dedicated to concision, while it was emphasized on feminine again after the war. Moreover, the pursue of practical function during the war time enabled the fashion designer to add more male elements in designing female clothes, some even used male manner into women design (Marsha, 1993). The strictly restriction on dressing was also carried out in several countries, for example, there was a point system in Britain to restrict the dressing style of women, set out a series of rules to lead womens dressing way (Janet, 1977). T his kind of restriction not only put on female dressing, but also guided males way of dressing. Males uniform style was most affected part such as utility suit of Britain and victory suit of America (Boucher, 1987). The whole decade was dominated by the wartime practical function and the after-war feminine style. Health sport After 1945 a series of revolutionary changes took place in sports clothe. Firstly, pullover dresses, underwear and gym tops often used new range of synthetic fibres which suited in the early days of production to knitted fabrics. During the fifties, some earlier inventions and new use of synthetic fibres particularly nylon combined with practical techniques developed in military clothing were introduced into civilian production. For example, hoods that were concealed in neck collars; pockets in jacket fronts which were designed to store snack foods; gloves with zip pockets for ski passes; elastic inserts in the sides of ski pants and stirrup straps underfoot made for pull on, pull off clothes. These features are expected by us automatically today. In addition, nylon running shorts and cotton vests3 were adopted by athletes. Zip up windcheaters and anoraks were taken onto the athletics and sports field, though trouser bottoms often appeared to be odd, they helped to keep off the chill . Stretch garments became quite popular by the mid sixties; and one attractive advantage was the comfort factor of being able to move with a garment. Hair beauty In this decade the most popular hair styles is tresses curled and rolled longer. The movie stars of that time such as Veronica Lake and Lauren Bacall gave the best demonstration of the long curling styles. Though putting your hair up into compact elegant up-dos was the standard style for weddings and proms, this kind of occasions became rarer and rarer. World War II heavily influenced the beauty industry in this decade. The fashion, cosmetics used and beauty standards were affected by the mood of sad and depression. As Ingrid Bergman showed in the 1942 movie Casablanca, a typical beauty style should try to demonstrate serious, glamorous in a very subdued, sophisticated way4. A wholesome look was much more acceptable than showy. The mood for excess and flamboyancy was considered as inadequate, both because the effects of the Depression still were influencing peoples life, and because a lot of American young men were sending to European battlefields to fight and die. Celebrity The fashion icon in this period was Rita Hayworth. The Great American Love Goddess was born in Brooklyn, New York. She represented the most fashionable style of 1940s in the movies of The Strawberry Blonde (1941), and Blood and Sand (1941). The musicals You`ll Never Get Rich (1941) and You Were Never Lovelier (1942), both with Fred Astaire, My Gal Sal (1942), with Victor Mature, and Cover Girl (1944), with Gene Kelly, made her a musical star and a favourite pinup girl of American servicemen during WWII (Stach, 1987). Science technology The development of science and technology enable fashion design develops from hand-made family workshop to the machinery production. The importance of customer design began to be recognised. As the improvement of manufacture technology, the ready-to-wear clothes were considered to be the major issue during this period. The science of human body stimulates the establishment of comprehensive size system for clothes. The technology also made the manufacturing of clothes divided into three categories: Haute Couture clothes, senior ready-to-wear clothes and ordinary ready-to-wear clothes. Meanwhile, the expansion of materials scope provided sufficient basis for designers to express their unique style in their masterpieces. Although the battle broke out over the world, new products came out at the same time. Nylons were sold to the public in 1940 when the battle of Britain started. In the next year, Japanese attacked Pearl Harbour, and the jeep was invented in the same year. In 1942, when the battle of Midway and the battle of Stalingrad broke out, T-shirt was introduced to the public. Moreover, the advancement of social science also played great role in the fashion design within the period. People established positive attitudes towards beauty as well as fashion design and were tolerance on prevailed trends, which enabled some subculture trend become popular in the mainstream of the society. Conclusion 1940-1950 was an important period in fashion design due to the influence of World War II. Affected by the war, many fashion corporations closed such as Maision Vionnet and Maison Chanel, while others relocated in New York (Turner, 1958). Pariss leading place was still continued although Germany was taking half of French manufacturing and was considering relocate the original French haute couture to Berlin. The faith of fashion design was established and developed quickly (Peacock, 1998). Its enomous change was driven by several factors include arts, political events, hair beauty, science technology, etc. Conduct research on this specific decade is not simply dating back to the history, it is also provides sufficient information for the development of fashion design in the new century. References: Books: Baudot, F. (1999) A Century of Fashion. London: Thames Hudson Ltd. Boucher, F. (1987) A History of Costume in West , London: Thames Hudson Ltd. Buxhaum, G. (1999) Icons of Fashion, the 20th century. NY: Verleg. Helen, B. (1965). The Theory of Fashion Design, New York: John Wiley and Sons. Janet, A. (1977). Patterns of Fashion 2: Englishwomens Dresses and Their Construction c. 1860-1940, Wace 1966, Macmillan 1972. Revised metric edition, Drama Books. James, L. (1979). The Concise History of Costume and Fashion, Abrams. Marsha, H. (1993). The Way We Wore: Styles of the 1930s and 40s and Our World Since Then, Fallbrook Pub. Ltd. Peacock, J. (1998) Fashion Sourcebooks, the 1940s. London: Thames Hudson Ltd. Stach, L. (1987). Hollywood and Seventh Avenue: The Impact of Historical Films on Fashion, in Hollywood and History: Costume Design in Film, Los Angeles County Turner, W. (1958). The Mode in Fashion, 1942; 2nd expanded edition New York: Scribners. Websites: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Charles_Frederick_Worth http://www.artdesignfashion.com/timelines/ http://www.fashion-era.com/sports_fashion_until_1950.htm http://www.lphouse.com/hairstyles-1940s.htm

Speech Recognition and Speech Synthesis :: Essays Papers

Speech Recognition and Speech Synthesis Speech Recognition. Speech Recognition is the process by which a computer maps an acoustic speech signal to text. It is different that speech understanding which is the process by which a computer maps an acoustic speech signal to some form of abstract meaning of the speech. This process depends on the speaker, and how he speaks the language. There are three different systems for the speaker. * Speaker dependent system. * Speaker independent system. * Speaker adaptive system. Speaker Dependent System. A speaker dependent system is developed to operate for a single speaker. These systems are usually easier to develop, cheaper to buy and more accurate, but not as flexible as speaker adaptive or speaker independent systems. Speaker Independent System. A speaker independent system is developed to operate for any speaker of a particular type like American English, or any other kind of English Language. These systems are the most difficult to develop, most expensive and accuracy is lower than speaker dependent systems. However, they are more flexible. Speaker Adaptive System. A speaker adaptive system is developed to adapt its operation to the characteristics of new speakers. It's difficulty lies somewhere between speaker independent and speaker dependent systems. There are many things that effects the speaker systems. For example The size of vocabulary of a speech recognition system affects the complexity, processing requirements and the accuracy of the system. Some applications only require a few words like numbers, others require very large dictionaries (e.g. dictation machines). There are no established definitions for the size of vocabulary. To make it easy to understand we can say that :- small vocabulary - tens of words medium vocabulary - hundreds of words large vocabulary - thousands of words very-large vocabulary - tens of thousands of words. As well as the size of vocabulary effects the speaker system, the way on speaking this words effects too. There are two different ways of speech. continuous speech or isolated-word speech. Isolated-word Speech:- An isolated-word system operates on single words at a time - requiring a pause between saying each word. This is the simplest form of recognition to perform because the end points are easier to find and the pronunciation of a word tends not affect others. Thus, because the occurrences of words are more consistent they are easier to recognize. Continuous Speech:- A continuous speech system operates on speech in which words are connected together, i.e. not separated by pauses.

Back Titration Essay

Synopsis The objective of this experiment is to determine the percentage by mass of calcium carbonate,CaCO3 in toothpaste using back titration technique. A known weight portion of toothpaste is obtained to react with known volume and concentration of standard acid solution. After completing the reaction, the resulting solution containing excess acid is back titrated with known volume and concentration of standard base solution. Determination of excess acid after reaction allow us to calculate the amount of acid react with CaCO3 in toothpaste sample. My result for this experiment shows that 19.6% of calcium carbonate presents in toothpaste sample. In conclusion,CaCO3 only made up approximately one fifth of toothpaste sample, toothpaste derived from a variety of component such as fluoride, water and detergent. Since the result obtained approaching 20%, saying that most of the error is avoided, the chemical reaction in this experiment is rapid and complete with no side reaction, determination of concentration of reactant is accurate, it is a successful experiment. Introduction The purpose of this experiment is to improve the understanding of practical application of back titration. Back titration is designed to resolve the problems encountered with forward titration. Back titration can be used for many reasons: when the analyte is volatile or insoluble in water; when the analyte contains impurities that interfere with forward titration; when the end point is difficult to identify in forward titration; when the analyte react slowly with titrant in forward titration.In this experiment, a weighted portion of toothpaste is analysed to determine the percentage by mass of CaCO3 present in the toothpaste sample. Back titration technique is applied in this experiment instead of forward titration.This is because the substance being analysed, toothpaste is insoluble in water but soluble in acid. Theory Titration is the scientific techinique of volumetric analysis used to determine the concentration of unknown solution which involves the direct and stepwise addition of standard titrant to the analyte until the reaction  reach neutralization.Back titration is also a kind of titration.It is called titration done in reverse because it is not carried out with the solution whose concentration of substance being analysed is required to be known as in the case of normal titration.In figuring out the concentration of an analyte(toothpaste,CaCO3),back titration works by reacting the analyte with a known number of moles of excess intermediate reactant(hydrochloric acid,HCl). The reaction goes past the equivalence point. The amount of intermediate reactant is in excess in the reaction with analyte.The resulting mixture containing excess of intermediate reactant is then titrated back with known volume and concentration of titrant(sodium hydroxide,NaOH). Knowledge of stoichiometry of the react ion allow the concetration of the analyte in the original solution related to the amount of reagent used. Procedure Materials was prepared and equipment was cleaned with distilled water if necessary.10 ml of 0.16M of standard HCl was measured and pipetted into a clean conical flask. Approximately 0.1-0.2g of toothpaste was removed using a glass rod from the container and the exact weight of toothpaste sample was recorded. The glass rod with weighted toothpaste was placed in the conical flask which contained 10ml of 0.16M of standard HCl. Toothpaste was dislodged completely from the glass rod into the conical flask. About 10ml of deionised water was added to wash down the toothpaste from the glass rod.A funnel was inserted in the flask and the flask was gently heated to boil over a hot plate for 3-5 minutes until the reaction was complete. The funnel and the side wall of the flask was rinsed with small amount of deionised water. The mixture in the flask was allowed to cool to room temperature.A clean graduated burette was prepared and the inside of burette was rinsed with NaOH solution. Rinsing procedure was repeated.The graduated burette was filled with excess amount of 0.08M NaOH solution. Some solution was allowed to drain out through stopcock to a waste beaker.The burette was clamped securely to a retord stand.1-2 drops of methyl orange indicator was added to conical flask and it was swirled. The conical flask was placed under the burette.The initial burette reading was read and recorded.To begin titrating the excess HCl with NaOH, The stopcock was opened all the way and  the flask was swirled.As the end point was approached, the rate of addition of HCl into the NaOH was decreased to drop by drop.The end point reached when the colour of mixture changed from red or pink to orange.The final burette reading of NaOH solution was read and recorded.The titration was repeated twice.

Essay about Canada

Essay about Canada Canada is an amazing country and it would be not fair to talk only about such ordinary and boring aspects like economic development, mining industry or political system – the things which would never attract neither you, nor any other curious person. It will be much better to dedicate this essay to the â€Å"Do you know†¦?† facts about Canada. So, do you know that people who have two mother tongues (i.e. bilinguals) get older more slowly, than the ones who have only one language? In Canada people speak both French and English. Do you know that near the beautiful Kingston city a famous Irish festival takes place? Do you know that Canada is famous for its Spotted Lake? The waters of this lake have high concentration of different minerals (magnesium sulfate, sodium calcium soleplates). What makes this lake so special is the fact that in summer almost all the water evaporates and the minerals are left there. As a result, on the place, where the water used to be, huge spots appear. The color of every spot depends on the composition of the mineral. The panorama is making you admire the picturesque place with bated breath! Well, of course you know that Canada is internationally famous for the Niagara Falls! It is interesting to know that the Niagara Falls combines three other falls: Horseshoe Falls, American Falls and Bridal Vail Falls! It is well-known that Niagara Falls is the most voluminous waterfalls on the Niagara River. One can endlessly enumerate the